Which alcohol should you use in perfume?
In chemistry, the term "alcohol" refers to a functional group: any instance where an oxygen atom is single-bonded to both a hydrogen atom and something else is classified as -OH. From this, an infinite number of alcohols can be produced.
The alcohol found in alcoholic beverages has a specific name in chemistry: ethanol. Alcoholic perfumes are made by diluting a fragrance concentrate, consisting of aromatic chemicals and essential oils, with ethanol. Ethanol acts as a solvent: it ensures the perfume diffuses well on the skin and evaporates evenly.
Types of alcohol: what to use, what not to use?
TSDA SD-40b
Cosmetic grade Totally Denatured Alcohol for Commercial use. Denatured with tert-butyl alcohol, it is harmless and an industry standard. Opt for this variant whenever possible.
Perfumer's alcohol / Formulating alcohol
These are ready-made mixtures designed as alternatives to TSDA. They are a good option in countries where a license for TSDA is required (like the UK).
Everclear (190 proof)
US-made grain alcohol containing 95% ethanol. It is food-grade. Can be used as a starting point if you cannot find TSDA.
Distilled water (small amount)
Some perfumers add a few percentage points. There's a risk of cloudiness. If using, use deionized/distilled water, at most 5% in the final product.
Vodka
Only contains ~40% alcohol. This is far below the 95%+ threshold required for perfumery.
Isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol)
Unsuitable for perfume due to its strong odor and skin irritation. Also, it may not properly dissolve raw materials.
Denatured alcohol (generic)
Never use products labeled "just denatured alcohol." They may contain many harmful denaturants.
Methanol
A completely different, highly toxic alcohol from ethanol. Easily absorbed by the skin. Should not be used under any circumstances.
Witch hazel
Information circulates online that it can be used in place of alcohol in perfumery. This information is incorrect.
Grain alcohol / Organic grain alcohol
Whether it's "grain" or "organic" is not the point; what matters is that it's cosmetic grade and 95%+ pure.
Best option: SD-40b or another cosmetic-grade TSDA.
Alternative: Specially formulated Perfumer's Alcohol products.
Last resort: 190 proof Everclear (food-grade, 95% ethanol).
Absolutely do not use: Non-cosmetic/food-grade denatured alcohol, methanol, isopropyl alcohol, vodka, or witch hazel.
