Linalool
Linalool belongs to a class of molecules called terpenes. Like many other terpenes, linalool occurs naturally in a wide variety of plants, from lavender to bergamot, and forms a component of countless essential oils. Ho Wood and Rosewood (Bois de Rose) essential oils contain over 80% linalool. This ubiquity means it naturally makes its way into a significant number of perfumes, even without the perfumer's conscious intent.
Why is it on so many ingredient labels?
Perfumers generally do not put anything on ingredient labels unless mandated. However, linalool is classified as an allergen by the EU and must be declared on the ingredient label if present in the final perfume at over 0.001%. This ensures that consumers with a linalool allergy are aware of the product.
Applications in perfumery
The widespread occurrence of linalool in natural raw materials has a significant practical benefit. The scent of many flowers and fruits naturally contains linalool; these scents are recreated by perfumers through "accords."
Raw materials derived from flowers are often expensive; for the vast majority of fruits, a usable extract for perfumery cannot be obtained. This necessitates accord work. When linalool is added to these mixtures, it imparts a naturalness to the composition that would otherwise be prone to smelling synthetic.
Expert use in composition
Linalool's value in perfumery extends beyond enhancing the natural properties of scents. This versatile molecule can be used to create a sense of "space" within a fragrance composition, contributing to its immediate diffusion — technically called sillage.
Harmony with other molecules
Similar to molecules like Hedione and Iso E Super, linalool helps other raw materials in a perfume settle and soften, ensuring a harmonious co-existence.
Transition between notes
Both linalool and ethyl linalool can bridge top and middle notes, in the way bergamot traditionally does. Linalool is one of the main components of bergamot essential oil.
Ethyl linalool
Ethyl linalool, linalool's softer, creamier cousin, is also gaining increasing attention in the perfume industry. This synthetic variant can be used similarly to linalool, but it generally aligns better with the clean and modern character of contemporary perfumes.
