Iso E Super
Iso E Super is one of the most famous molecules in perfumery — one of the few fragrance molecules whose name is known in popular culture. It is often described as woody, cedar, amber, and ambergris. It is not heavy or difficult to use; most people find it pleasant. It is used in all types of perfumes today and is quite inexpensive because it is produced on a very large scale.
A brief history
Scientists begin searching for ionone analogues, similar to the violet-scented "Ionone" molecules.
Discovered by John B. Hall and James M. Sanders of IFF. Initially used in small amounts, mostly in woody compositions.
Christian Dior — Fahrenheit. Made up a quarter of the formula. The first example of the "overdose" trend.
It was discovered that an isomer called Arboron was responsible for most of the true scent — 100,000 times stronger, but only 5% of the mixture.
Lancôme — Trésor. Used at 18%. During the same period, Givaudan developed Georgywood as an alternative to Arboron.
Escentric Molecules — Molecule 01. This cult perfume, containing 100% Iso E Super, brought the molecule into popular culture.
Structure and isomers
In chemistry, different arrangements of the same atoms create similar molecules; these are called isomers. Iso E Super belongs to the "Isocyclomone" class.
The discovery in 1990 revealed that the original Iso E Super product was never 100% pure. The main scent was provided by the Arboron isomer, which was only 5% of the mixture — 100,000 times stronger. To this day, a viable method for synthesizing high-purity Arboron on an industrial scale has not been found.
Iso E Super
The original molecule discovered in 1973. It has a very light scent on its own; its true scent strength comes from the mixture of isomers.
Arboron
100,000 times stronger. Industrial synthesis of high purity is not yet possible.
Georgywood
Developed by Givaudan in the 1990s as an alternative to Arboron. Available only to Givaudan perfumers.
Iso Gamma (Isogamma)
Due to its more polar structure, it has a low tendency for bioaccumulation. Molecule 01 is reported to use an isogamma-rich blend.
Commercial variants
"Iso E Super" has now become an umbrella term also used for the general mixture of isomers.
| Commercial name | Composition |
|---|---|
| Iso E Super | Original IFF product; general mixture of isomers. Most common on the market. |
| Timbersilk | Contains 0.07% AmberXtreme + 8.5% Arborone + 13.5% Iso Gamma. |
| Sylvamber | Contains 14.9% Arboron and approximately 9.5% gamma isomer. |
| Georgywood | Givaudan's exclusive development. Available only to Givaudan perfumers. |
